Hydroquinone / Tretinoin / Kojic Acid / Hydrocortisone

(Derma-Fade Lightening) Topical Cream

8% / 0.05% / 3% / 1%

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Hydroquinone / Tretinoin / Kojic Acid / Hydrocortisone – Topical Cream Description1,2

Skin lightening (brighteners) therapy is used to treat skin conditions that emanate from hyperpigmentation. Melanin, a pigment that causes skin darkening, is synthesized within melanocytes from tyrosine facilitated by the enzyme tyrosinase. Melanin after being synthesized is moved to keratinocytes (the primary epidermal cells). Pigmentation occurs when more melanin is produced than normal or distributed in an abnormal pattern. Chemical products are used to decrease the hyperpigmentation that arises from melanin hyperproduction or abnormal distribution.

This topical cream combines ingredients to help lighten hyperpigmentation, promote cell turnover, and may reduce inflammation. The powerful ingredients work together to help fade dark spots, even out skin tone, and soothe irritated skin for a clearer, more youthful complexion.

Hydroquinone3-6

Hydroquinone, a phenolic, organic compound, has the molecular formula C6H6O2. It has been used in the photography industry along with the cosmetic industry.  It is generally compounded in concentrations from 2% to 12%. The efficacy and toxicity of hydroquinone are contingent on its final concentration, the vehicle that hydroquinone is in and the chemical stability of the product. The benefits of hydroquinone as a skin-lightening agent may take up to 2 months.

Tretinoin7,8

Tretinoin, a naturally occurring derivative of vitamin A, is also called all-trans-retinoic acid. Retinoids may facilitate regulation of cell reproduction, cell proliferation and differentiation. For hyperpigmentation disorders, tretinoin can prevent the transcription of the enzyme tyrosinase which minimizes melanogenesis.

Kojic Acid 9,10

Kojic acid, an organic acid, is produced from different fungi (A. flavus, A. oryzae, A. tamarii, and A. parasiticus). It was first isolated in 1907 and marketed in 1955. It is commonly used as a depigmenting agent. It is thought to have antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities in addition to its skin-lightening activity.

Hydrocortisone11,12

Hydrocortisone, a steroid hormone that systematically has both glucocorticoid and mineralocorticoid activity, is the synthetic form of cortisol. Cortisol is a hormone produced by the adrenal glands.  Hydrocortisone topically has anti-inflammatory, antipruritic, anti-mitotic, and immunosuppressive properties. There are many topical steroids available on the market. Hydrocortisone is a low potency steroid. It is used in creams that use many products to treat hyperpigmentation since it may mitigate irritation that emanates from other ingredients in the cream.

Hydroquinone 3-6

Hydroquinone affects the melanogenesis process by inhibiting tyrosinase. It also inhibits DNA and RNA synthesis and suppresses the formation of melanosomes. The ability of hydroquinone to affect the melanocyte metabolic process may lead to a decrease in the production of melanin.

Tretinoin7,8

Tretinoin prevents the transcription of the enzyme tyrosinase which minimizes melanogenesis. In addition, tretinoin decreases melanin transfer, increases cell turnover of keratinocytes and the permeability in the stratum corneum. In this way melanin is dispersed.

In addition to its other activity, tretinoin may prevent hydroquinone oxidation and improve epidermal penetration of hydroquinone.

Kojic Acid 9,10

Kojic acid is thought to chelate copper. Copper is needed at the active site of the tyrosinase enzyme. This action inhibits the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme. The tyrosinase enzyme is needed for melanin production.

Hydrocortisone11,12

The anti-inflammatory effects of topical hydrocortisone may occur through vasoconstriction. The vasoconstriction minimizes inflammatory mediators delivered to the inflamed area. Topical hydrocortisone may also inhibit the release of phospholipase A2, which reduces prostaglandins and leukotriene. Lastly, topical hydrocortisone inhibits DNA and transcription factors related to inflammation. It does this by increasing the expression of anti-inflammatory genes and indirectly inhibiting inflammatory transcription factors, such as NF-kB, to decrease the expression of pro-inflammatory genes.

Topical hydrocortisone may also have an anti-mitotic effect by decreasing epidermal mitosis mediated through an increase in lipocortin, an endogenous glucocorticoid-regulated protein.

Topical hydrocortisone may also inhibit humoral factors in the inflammatory response by suppressing immune cells from maturing, differentiating and proliferating.

It may also decrease irritation from hydroquinone and tretinoin.

Common3-14

  • Burning sensation, irritation, erythema
  • Do not use in patients with open wounds
  • Photosensitivity with tretinoin

Serious3-14

  • Exogenous ochronosis with prolonged hydroquinone use

Contraindications3-14  

  • Hypersensitivity or intolerance to hydroquinone, tretinoin, hydrocortisone, kojic acid or arbutin
  • Presence of active dermatitis, eczema, or open wounds at the application site
  • Avoid in pregnant patients

Precautions3-14

  • Use with other agents that can dry or irritate the skin (benzoyl peroxide)

Store at 20–25°C (68–77°F) in a cool, dry place, protected from light and moisture. Keep container tightly closed.

  1. Cassiano DP, Espósito ACC, da Silva CN, Lima PB, Dias JAF, Hassun K, Miot LDB, Miot HA, Bagatin E. Update on Melasma-Part II: Treatment. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2022 Sep;12(9):1989-2012.
  2. Philipp-Dormston WG. Melasma: A Step-by-Step Approach Towards a Multimodal Combination Therapy. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024 May 22;17:1203-121
  3. Fabian IM, Sinnathamby ES, Flanagan CJ, Lindberg A, Tynes B, Kelkar RA, Varrassi G, Ahmadzadeh S, Shekoohi S, Kaye AD. Topical Hydroquinone for Hyperpigmentation: A Narrative Review. Cureus. 2023 Nov 15;15(11):e48840.
  4. Schwartz C, Jan A, Zito PM. Hydroquinone. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK539693/ August 22, 2023. Accessed July 22, 2025.
  5. Sarkar R, Gokhale N, Godse K, et al. Medical Management of Melasma: A Review with Consensus Recommendations by Indian Pigmentary Expert Group. Indian J Dermatol. 2017 Nov-Dec;62(6):558-577.
  6. González-Molina V, Martí-Pineda A, González N. Topical Treatments for Melasma and Their Mechanism of Action. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):19-28.
  7. Clinical Pharmacology tretinoin clinical monograph 2025 https://www.clinicalkey.com/pharmacology/ 
  8. Yoham AL, Casadesus D. Tretinoin. Statpearls. March 27, 2023. Accessed July 27, 2025.
  9. Saeedi M, Eslamifar M, Khezri K. Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Biomed Pharmacother. 2019 Feb;110:582-593.
  10. Phasha V, Senabe J, Ndzotoyi P, Okole B, Fouche G, Chuturgoon A. Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient. Cosmetics. 2022; 9(3):64.
  11. Clinical Pharmacology hydrocortisone clinical monograph 2025 https://www.clinicalkey.com/pharmacology/     
  12. Gabros S, Nessel TA. Topical Corticosteroids. Statpearls. April 26, 2025. Accessed July 27, 2025.
  13. PandeyA, Jatana GK, Sonthalia S.Cosmeceuticals. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK544223/ Accessed July 22, 2025
  14. Bhattar PA, Zawar VP, Godse KV, Patil SP, Nadkarni NJ, Gautam MM. Exogenous Ochronosis. Indian J Dermatol. 2015 Nov-Dec;60(6):537-43.

WPPL operates as a 503A compounding pharmacy and prepares individualized prescription medications pursuant to provider direction. Compounded preparations are not reviewed, tested, or approved by the FDA.

This listing also includes commercially manufactured products for convenience; these items are not compounded by our pharmacy and are sold as provided by their manufacturers. Any statements regarding non-compounded products are manufacturer-supplied, have not been evaluated by the FDA, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. WPPL does not verify or endorse any therapeutic claims made by manufacturers. Please refer to original labeling for complete product information.

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